The view from our site. I can see my enemies coming!
Greetings from Rock Island State Park in northern Wisconsin. Jesse and I are camping at the place that alternates between being “our favorite place on Earth” and “Hell.” It all depends on whether or not we get stuck with loud neighbors. So far, so good in that department. Phew. All we can hear right now is the wind.
We got here a few hours ago, set up our site, ate some chips and hopped in the tent. It’s not even 8:30 p.m. and we’re tucked in for the night. No campfire this evening because it’s too windy.
We’re on a cliff that overlooks Lake Michigan. Stunning views. I recently read a book (Siri, Who Am I? by Sam Tschida)where one of the characters said he liked views that overlook large bodies of water because “you can see your enemies coming.”
I agree.
To be clear, the wind is not my enemy. The wind is my therapist, knocking all kinds of good sense into me.
Lake Michigan, thanks to the wind, has been tossing up huge waves with whitecaps for most of the day. The current is so strong that the weather authorities issued a “beach hazard.” That means no one was or is allowed in or on the waters. Well, maybe they’re “allowed” but it’s certainly not advised. The current could easily pull a swimmer under and the waves would cause certain shipwreck. We saw it happen here last summer. Somebody stayed out on the water past the warning and, in the morning, the boat was on its side, totally demolished on the rocks. It looked awful.
The wind is racing around us at 30 mph. Between the wind, tent and the lake, it’s noisy. There is a lot of…flapping.
I just checked. According to the “decibel meter” app on my iPhone, the loudness levels from the flapping are commensurate with a running vacuum cleaner or food blender. Hey, who doesn’t want to be surrounded by that when they’re camping on a remote island?
At least it’s still light outside. That means I’m not scared but I probably will be once darkness sets in. Camping makes me feel safe and alive…until it doesn’t. But dealing with my fears is part of what I like about camping.
We don’t camp very often. Once or twice a summer and it’s always hit or miss depending on our camping “neighbors.” Most of the time we have quiet neighbors but we’ve been stuck next to some obnoxious partiers a couple times. Now when we camp, when I see my enemies coming with their multiple tents, coolers filled with beer, lighter fluid and loud music, we immediately pack up and leave. I’m sure there are others who would put up a fight, but not us.
Sometimes I’m not sure why we risk our precious free time on camping.
The view from our tent.
Well, I know why I risk it. I love reading and writing while I camp. There’s something about it that makes me feel silly, serious and free all at once. And I love camping coffee. We got a new coffee pot for this trip and we can’t wait to break it in tomorrow morning. Oh, and I love the feeling of being outside for several days in a row. It unspools all my tension. Even though it’s loud, all this tent-flapping seems to be batting the stress out of me. Amazing. Next time you see me I’m gonna be hella peaceful.
The darkness has set in. It’s close to 10:00 p.m. I’m going to have to zip up the tent. The rain will be here soon and I’ll probably start “hearing footsteps” outside our tent. I always do. I always imagine there’s a creep with a hunchback running around our campsite, sniffing things he shouldn’t be sniffing. Generally speaking, I have a pretty good imagination, but it really comes alive at night when I’m camping.
Thanks for reading. Writing this has made me sleepy. Hopefully it has a relaxing effect on you, too. -Connie
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Today’s prompt: Do you have a memory that’s linked to a smell?
My husband loves tea. Chai tea, green tea, black tea, Sleepytime tea, chamomile tea, you name it. If it’s tea, he’ll drink it. Last month he had a dental appointment and the hygienist, while cleaning his teeth, teased him.
“Somebody sure likes his tea,” she said. Scrape, scrape, scrape.
When he got home, he reported this to me with absurd pride. He smiled at me with both rows of teeth as he put the red kettle on the stove and heated up the water.
Sam painted this in 2020.
We had the red tea kettle for many years. It had a slightly wobbly handle, but we made it work. One year, Sam painted a picture of it at an art pop-up. Every time I look at it, I love it a little bit more.
Last winter, the handle of our beloved red kettle finally fell off and we had to throw it away. That night, Jesse was forced to use “the good kettle.”
The good kettle is a cast iron work of art and it resides on our mantle, surrounded by other small works of art and relics of nature. It’s precious to us and we only use it when we go camping.
But that cold winter night, out of necessity, my man filled the good kettle with water, placed it on the stove and turned on the burner.
A few minutes later, he came upstairs and told me to follow him.
“Connie, come here,” he said. “You’re not going to believe this.”
He led me to the stove. Smoke was gently wafting off the kettle.
“You can smell Rock Island.”
And we could! With each tiny whirl of smoke, we could smell hints of the summer campfires. The scent didn’t fill the kitchen, we had to get close to the kettle, but it was enough to remind us of our favorite place.
“I can’t wait to go back,” he said.
“Me too.”
That winter night, the good kettle not only took us back to our family camping trip; it gave my husband and I a special moment in our kitchen and reminded us that it would only be seven more months until our next trip to the island. Lovely.
Thanks for reading.
That’s the tea,
Connie
P.S. Rock Island is a small, remote island in northern Wisconsin / Door County. We camp there every summer.
A stand of white pine trees in the Kishwaukee River Forest Preserve.
I live in Rockford, Illinois with my husband, our four children and pets. It’s neither a small town nor a suburb. It’s a big town or, if you prefer, a small city. And it really spreads out: It has an area of approximately 65 square miles and a population of @150,000 of the nicest people you’ll ever meet.
For perspective, Chicago (pop: 2.71 million) has 234 square miles. Minneapolis (pop: @420,000) has 59 square miles. I include those two cities because I am very familiar with both and love them dearly. But I live in Rockford and am eager to share the beautiful and free places that make it so special. Here’s where we hiked in 2021:
Aldeen Park / Rockford University. If you want to get a quick, rugged two miles in, Aldeen is a city park that has a great trail system replete with a creek, dam, prairie, bluffs, hills and lots of deer.
I don’t have a picture of any of the dozens of deer we saw in 2021 but here is evidence of “buck rub.”
Aldeen also connects with the local university, which offers several unexpected moments of nature.
Sam and Angelo explore a pile of “junk” trees behind the university. They found numerous Artists’ Conks and Dryad’s Saddles growing on the decaying wood.Most of the trees in that stash at the university are decaying and hollowed out from insects and mushrooms. Here’s Angelo taking a peek inside.
Blackhawk Springs Forest Preserve. A family favorite. Spectacular views of the Kishwaukee River, lovely trails that connect with several other preserves, lots of biodiversity throughout the system and the “springs” are always a delight, no matter the season,
The “springs” in December at Blackhawk. Always teeming with spirit and life.
It’s easy to get a quick three miles at Blackhawk but you can track several more if that is your intention. Mushroom hunters: I found old, decaying chicken-of-the-woods and oysters here in December. I hope to harvest some fresh choice edibles in the spring, summer and fall!
Cedar Cliff Forest Preserve. Lovely views of a prairie, a mostly hardwood forest (there are a couple different stands of white pine trees in the woods) and the Rock River. You’re likely to encounter deer, an owl, snails and bald eagles on this hike, not to mention at least a dozen species of mushrooms ranging from coral to milk-caps and beyond! This is mostly a loop and it’s less than 2.5 miles long. It’s close to the Rockford Airport so you’ll see and hear low-flying aircraft while you hike. Though this isn’t a long hike, it’s one of my favorites because it’s close to home but it feels like a completely different state.
Views like this make me feel like I’m far away from home but Cedar Cliff Forest Preserve is a less than 20 minute drive!
Colored Sands Forest Preserve. Terrific prairie, lovely woods, nice view of the Kish. A busy thoroughfare for birds and bird banders so be mindful of the mist nets. Easy to get a quick two miles here. With a little ingenuity, you’ll track 10 miles because it connects with Sugar River Alder Forest Preserve. Wear bright colors during hunting season because hunters are out on nearby private properties. Speaking of bright, check out this Northern Cinnabar Polypore I found at Colored Sands on Christmas Eve:
Beautiful pore structure and a lovely burnt orange color. This is a Northern Cinnabar Polypore (Trametes cinnabarina) I found on a decaying log about twenty feet from the trail not far from the hawk station.
Deer Run Forest Preserve. Fern and I love it here. The trails go on for miles and take you through woods, by prairies and right up-and-into the Kishwaukee River. Easy to get a quick three miles in, but if you want more, you’ll track at least six. Hiking in the winter is delightful, but I can’t wait until the spring so I can forage for mushrooms here. I don’t want to give away too much, but if you see this tree in the spring, summer or fall, you are probably steps aways from several species of choice mushrooms! Hint: not a chicken, but a ______ of-the-woods!
Mushroom lovers: If you see this tree at Deer Run, you are very close to several species of choice mushrooms!
Funderburg Forest Preserve. Go there in May to check out the spectacular meadows. You will see unique shades of green in May. You can cover a lot of miles here, but it’s not my favorite. While most trails are inherently uneven, the trails around the cornfields can be ankle-twisters, not to mention boring. And I noticed there were a lot of horse flies particularly in the deepest sections of the woods all summer long. This is one of those places I wanted (and repeatedly tried) to unconditionally love, but I only recommend it as a place to see cool shades of green in the month of May:
Check out Funderburg in May when the meadows glow with glorious green.
FUNDERBURG UPDATE JULY 10, 2023: On Sunday, July 9, 2023, I was hiking at Funderburg with the Rockford Fringe and was completely astonished to discover that several of the “boring cornfields” have indeed been converted into stunning prairies teeming with yarrow, bergamot and brown-eyed Susans. It is absolutely gorgeous! As such, Funderburg has climbed to the top of my favorite places to hike in northern Illinois.
Funderburg in 2023! They’ve converted the old cornfields into gorgeous wildflower prairies!
Kishwaukee Gorge North. If you’re going for miles, you’ll have to repeat the course, but the gorge is great and the workout going up and down is intense and fun. Lovely views of the Kishwaukee River and lots of mushrooms!
My sons exploring the gorge at Kishwaukee Gorge North in November. Several species of mushroom here.
Macktown Forest Preserve. Sort of small so park at the entrance to get your steps in. This place features lovely trails through a hardwood forest, nice views of the Rock River, an interesting cemetery where Hononegah is buried and educational signage about the history, native plants and more. But be careful. There is weirdness lurking in the woods:
Mysterious bin located fifty feet from the trail at Macktown. I was too chicken to get any closer. Jimmy Hoffa, are you in there?
Oak Ridge Forest Preserve. Unique structure and vibe. I always see something unusual here. Almost feels like you’re in the South. It starts by the Kishwaukee River then dips in and out of the forest.
This is a decaying giant puffball mushroom at Oak Ridge. The sunlight hit it in such a way that you can see its stunning purple hues. Most of the time, decaying puffballs look greyish-greenish-brown.
Rock Cut State Park. Located in Loves Park, this park features a beautiful forest, lovely lakes, camping and delightful trails. Once a year we rent a pedal boat and head out on Pierce Lake. It is especially fun to go early in the morning when it is quiet and misty.
Fern and Angelo on Pierce Lake at Rock Cut State Park.
Russell Woods Forest Preserve. In DeKalb County. Lovely views of the Kishwaukee River, nice trails, peaceful prairie and a nearby farm. Oh, and it has this sledding hill!
Russell Woods in DeKalb County. It’s a sledding hill in the winter but during the summer, it’s where we meet to share our writing or discuss the books we are reading. That’s Fern.
Severson Dells Nature Preserve. A family staple, easy to get in four quick miles. Interesting trails, lovely bluffs, an inviting creek and a pond that is teeming with life. Visit the woods in the evening to hear and see owls. Get an extra mile in by circling the prairie. Highly recommend the dells but avoid if it recently rained because it gets muddy and slippery.
Seward Bluffs Nature Preserve. One of the perks of hiking in the winter is that you will see things you wouldn’t necessarily see during the warmer months when everything is in “bloom.” Case in point: This dead, decaying tree 50 feet off of mile marker 20 is loaded with the biggest artists’ conks we have ever seen!
Angelo and I were stunned to find so many enormous artists’ conks on this old, dead tree at Seward.
I am certain we would not have seen these conks if the leaves were still on the trees. But there’s more to this preserve than behemoth mushrooms. Seward Bluffs has bluffs (duh), a river, campsites and lovely winding trails.
Be mindful of hunting season. Hunters have their lookouts right at the edge of their private property lines which border Colored Sands, Sugar River Alder and other forest preserves. It’s legal for them to hunt on their property and they are careful, but wear bright clothes if you hike in November and December.
Sugar River Alder Forest Preserve. Hands down my favorite forest preserve in Winnebago County. Exceptionally quiet, tremendous biodiversity, lots of long trails. Terrific prairie, woods, trails and creek. Wear bright colors in November / during hunting season.
Sugar River Alder Forest Preserve is vibrant and exceptionally quiet except during hunting season. Though not allowed in the preserve, it’s legal to hunt on the nearby properties and several people do.
Bonus Trails
I’m including two “bonus trails” that are located in Minnesota. I haven’t lived in Minneapolis for several years but I still cherish these natural areas and visit them whenever I am the Land of 10,000 Lakes.
Minnesota Valley Wildlife Refuge. Near the Minneapolis-St. Paul airport. The trails seem to go on forever. Years ago, when I worked in Bloomington, I used to come here on my lunch hour, so it’s possible to get a quick, satisfying 30-minute hike here. But I recommend carving out at least three hours so you can explore beyond the usual two-to-four miles.
Get your “butterfly fix” in the prairie and then head onto the trails of the Minnesota Valley Wildlife Refuge for a long, lovely hike.
Quaking Bog in Minneapolis. Located in the heart of the city and home to a beautiful, mysterious bog and several tamarack trees. If you get your fill of sphagnum moss, the bog quickly connects to Eloise Butler Garden, Theo Wirth pathways, more city trails and interesting neighborhoods. This was my “go-to” nature place when I lived in Minneapolis and it’s the first place I visit whenever I go back.
The quaking bog in Minneapolis in August.
What are your favorite places to hike? I hope you consider adding a northern Illinois trail to your list. If you aren’t ready to hike on your own, Rockford Fringe offers free guided hikes every Sunday. RSVP on the Events Page.
Constance Kuntz 